|$40 A3 scooter from Amazon|
|Noobishly printed the parts from solidworks|
|my decapitated scooter :(|
|Playing the sensor game|
|the latch works :D|
|Awesome pcb sensor mounts designed by Charles G.|
|Finally found the correct combination|
|My scooter works!|
This occurred less than twelve hours before the EV Race :(
In memory of the obvious event, I christened my scooter, "RailScooter". :D
|Yay! No broken bones.|
- Use a mill whenever you can! I had so many problems making a fork for my scooter because I would try to use my calipers to make aligning holes on two pieces and failed every time. The main problem was that I had band-sawed all the pieces for my fork so they were not exactly.. straight. This meant that measuring the proper positions for the holes was very difficult. Finally, I should have used more center point drill bits to make sure that I drilled the holes in the (already inaccurate measured) positions I had chosen.
- Very important! Use at least THREE screws (on each side) in the plate that holds the shock absorber. Most of the torque caused by your weight and by going over bumps (and conveniently, railroad tracks) acts on this plate. The problem with screws is that their threads weaken the material and make it very susceptible to shearing. This is why in my new (very hastily built) fork, I made sure that the plate was sitting on the 1/4'' aluminum fork side AND then screwed together. This way the aluminum would have to break before the screws are sheared off. My new fork will probably be waterjetted since I've already made the design in solidworks. It will use t-bolt slots and be substantially prettier and sturdier than my current fork.
- In retrospect, I should've done more research on the other scooters that other students had built because, honestly, I did not know what I was doing 80% of the time. Most of my time went into fixing slight misalignments and other errors I made.
|My injured wrist, RailScooter, and me.|